Paris : John Galliano’s first defile presentation was confident, charming and curious – it was also commercial. Set in the Grand Palais, staged with …
Paris : John Galliano’s first defile presentation was confident, charming and curious – it was also commercial. Set in the Grand Palais, staged with the Margiela simplicity, white benches, white backdrop, ushers in white coats, it was this creative contradiction that re-established both brand, and creative director, as a major fashion force. From the opening floor length trenches – in wool, PVC or deco print fur – to the inside-out-mini skirts – the satin rather than tartan on show, the key ingredient was joie de vivre – and celebrated the joy of dressing up. Trenches hung off backs, blown-out urchin pinstripe circle-cut pants were worn with cropped boxy jackets, while chiffon slips were trimmed with fur to full on shaggy fur and animal print. From eccentric muses, frayed seams to sepia prints and neon makeup, the presentation was theatrically punctuated – Galliano flipped fashion upside down and found some fun. – Camilla Morton.
Theme: From Calculated Imperfection the individual emerges
Key Items: Floor length trench / Mini skirt / Boxy jacket / Hot pants / Shaggy furs / Circular cut baggy pants / Mini dresses / Slim cropped pant suit / Cropped bow tied pants / Fur trim chiffons
Colours: Caramel / Orange / Aqua / Black / Plum / Neon orange / Acid lime / Turquoise
Materials and Trims: Wool / PVC / Satin / Suede / Crimped hair collars / Exposed seams
Print and Pattern: Pinstripe / Tartan / Deco print fur / Floral print velvet / Polka dot print velvet / Sepia print flowers / Animal print – leopard and snake
Accessories and Footwear: Frilled acid gloves / Neon flower corsage neck ties / Faux fur shoes / Double strapped Mary Janes on stacked heel / Fur and lingerie skull caps / Crunched up oversized clutches