Jan 04, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Milan: Fendi’s latest collection had all the hallmarks of creative director Karl Lagerfeld’s aesthetic: nautical influences, tie details, luxe materials and a little bit of kookiness. With their disheveled bouffants and bandit-style sunglasses, models resembled Hitchcockian heroines gone bad. Below the neck, however, the clothes were a bit more straightforward and reserved. The mid-century references continued in buoyant Balenciaga-esque shoulders and A-line skirts shaped with center kick pleats. Sailor collars, buttoned panels, Breton stripes and a black-and-white color scheme harkened back to the glory days of boardwalk culture. Crafty touches elevated what have become wardrobe staples to the luxury level associated with the label. Lagerfeld reinvented the hybrid sweater for summer with cable-knit plaits layered over a mesh ground, and horsehair ribbons created a dimensional yet delicate passementerie on tissue-weight tees. On the other hand, apron-style dresses fashioned out of pleated, basket-woven and layered panels of organza, looked just as overworked and unwearable as it sounds. – Nivara Xaykao
Silhouette: Relaxed hourglass / A-line / Rounded, puffed shoulders
Color: Goldenrod / Lime / Faded navy / Powder blue
Key Items: Tie top / Turtle tee / Housemaid dress / Kick-pleated sailor skirt / Fur vest / Pajama pants
Print + Pattern: Breton stripes / Ticking stripes
Materials: Georgette / Leather / Perforated suede / Fur / Burnout organza / Waxed poplin
Details + Trim: Shoulder cutouts / Horsehair ribbon / Jet beading / Leather appliqués
Accessories + Footwear: Crocodile satchels / Oversized rimless sunglasses with gradient tint / Perforated leather heels
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