Milan: The textural layers of Fendi’s F/W 12 collection were a reference to the intrinsic relationship between Roman life and historical atmosphere. Silhouettes had an armor-like appearance, evoking ancient Roman warriors with bold, rounded shoulders, wide oval belts and tiered pleated skirts. Signature to the house, fur was in abundance — astrakhan, haircalf, springbok, fox, mink — and sometimes combined with croc for a hard-meets-soft contrast. Cutouts and layered panels gave things a crafty, pieced-together look, while defined hourglass shapes and dramatic puff sleeves had a Victorian air. Pattern was present in a scaly motif, perhaps shagreen, covering the legs of the models, and shaggy dyed fur resembled the organic pattern of moth wings. With the cacophony of materials, saturated color and built-up constructions, often employed in one look, the complicated collection appeared to embody both past and present.  — Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: Hourglass / Straight / Round, puffed shoulders

Color:  Black / Grey / Deep Teal / Royal Blue / Steel Blue / Heather Grey / Cobalt / Cranberry / Purple / Chocolate / Canary Yellow

Key Items: Woven turtleneck / Puff sleeve tee / Structured shift / Pleated midi / Hourglass coat

Materials: Silk satin / Corduroy / Plissé / Wool suiting / Leather / Haircalf /Astrakhan / Patent leather / Croc / Shaggy fur / Springbok hide

Print + Pattern: Scaly motif / Moth wing pattern

Details + Trim: Trapunto stitching / Pleating / Cut-away + tiered panels / Peplums / Puff sleeves

Accessories + Footwear: Colored tights / Fur totes / Oval corset belts / Bottom frame eyewear / Lace-up granny-style boots


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