Milan: It seems to be the season of 1970s YSL, as yet another big-name show is influenced by the designer during that inspirational decade. With billowy sleeves, full skirts and a punchy palette, Karl Lagerfeld conjured the departed master for his collection at Fendi. But Lagerfeld, of course, gave the reference his personal spin. Inspired by summer heat and passion, the designer featured burnouts for his opening looks, and the passionate edge was also felt in romantic details like off-the-shoulder peasant necklines and placed embroideries, as well in as the womanly silhouettes. As to be expected, the leather pieces were a highlight; a crinkled variety was unlined for warmer weather and lacquered to a high shine, making for an intriguing, papery texture. Mini polka dots gave the collection an upbeat tone, and an eel skin skirt, dyed and pieced into red, white and blue strips, echoed the cheerful mood. The collection’s theme was right on-trend for the season, and its luxe materials make it all the more compelling.

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