Milan: For a house that was built around the ultimate in luxury materials — precious leathers and furs — this season’s Fendi collection felt relaxed and understated. Of course, furs were still present, but simple cuts and well-thought-out design elements, like using fur as an underlayer for a simple trenchcoat, made them less ostentatious. Houndstooth pants, long skirts and rubber-soled boots seemed made for a weekend in the country, but the all rustic looks were enriched by supple suedes and those luscious pelts. Silhouettes were refreshingly relaxed and easy; skirts of various lengths moved gracefully, and pants were neither loose nor tight. The overall unfussiness of the collection was a testament to Karl Lagerfeld’s impeccable instincts. As the tides begin to turn toward real clothing that will stand the test of time, and as furs gain acceptance for younger, hipper customers, Lagerfeld is able to morph his style accordingly — one of the secrets to his longevity in a fickle industry.

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