May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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LONDON’S RISING STARS
London: Claire Barrow, Ryan Lo, and Ashley Williams were selected as the womenswear designers for this season’s Fashion East presentation. Barrow kicked off the show with a crafty collection that seemed to have been inspired by the outdoors. Intarsia birds were knitted into a sweater dress, and other looks featured appliquéd or embroidered animal images. Loopy knits and cage-like overlayers connected with Barow’s DIY aesthetic, while a black graffiti-tagged bridal gown provided a touch of subversion. Lo opened his portion of the event with a pink cotton candy skirt suit, setting the mood for his sweet, feminine collection. Tulle, faux fur, floral printed organza, and sparkling bouclé were among the materials he used. Girlish conversational prints featuring cats added a youthful touch. It was Williams’ first time presenting on the London Fashion Week runways, but her collection’s polish belied her lack of experience. Kitschy 1950s-inspired images – headshots of Elvis Presley, vintage lipsticks, and product logos – enlivened the clean-lined garments. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Barrow: Cocoon / Fit-and-flare; Lo: A-line / Long and lean / Billowy; Williams: A-line / Shrunken / Hourglass
Color: Barrow: Burgundy / Dark brown / Olive / Black / White / Dusty blue; Lo: Cotton candy pink / Black / White / Pastel blue / Aqua / Lipstick red / Purple / Hot pink / Yellow / Cobalt / Silver / Gold / Peach; Williams: Poppy / Lime / Black / Fuchsia / Pale blue / Red / White / Taupe
Key Items: Barrow: Intarsia knit dress / Black graffiti wedding gown; Lo: Cotton candy skirt suit / Tulle tiered skirts; Williams: Elvis print shifts / Gingham pencil skirt
Materials: Barrow: Chunky wool yarns / Velvet / Printed silks; Lo: Faux fur / Swiss dot / Tulle / Bouclé / Lamé; Williams: Matte wool suitings / Printed silks / Medium-gauge yarns / Faux fur / Organza / Bouclé
Print + Pattern: Barrow: Birds and other animals / Graffiti; Lo: Girlish conversationals / Dreamy florals; Williams: Elvis posters / Vintage lipsticks / Retro logos
Details + Trim: Barrow: Looped yarns / Poet sleeves; Lo: Bow necklines / Tiers / Flounces; Williams: Contrast collars / Embroidered patches
Accessories + Footwear: Barrow: Cap-toe pumps / Lampshade headpiece / Leather newsboy cap / Chalkboard necklace / Tulle veils; Lo – Party-favor hair accessories / Ribbon chokers/ Sheer hosiery / Ankle-strap heels / Lace-up sneakers / Pointy-toe Mary Janes; Williams: Stuffed animal purses / Faux fur stoles / Pointy-toe pumps / Lace-up sneakers
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