Apr 17, 2020 | By Carla Buzasi
Request a demo to experience WGSN.
After show-hopping – and a team debrief – the WGSN Catwalks editors call out the most exciting and directional emerging trends – and we’re reviewing some of our favourite moments, too.
Grey skies over London made the perfect backdrop for Eudon Choi’s soft-brutalist show setting. In the shadow of the imposing Southbank Centre, equally stark shipping containers were transformed into a makeshift runway for Choi’s A/W 19 offering.
This was a collection inspired by the relationship between art and femininity – with women as both makers and muses. Choi draws particular reference from Meret Oppenheim, who famously refused to be described as a ‘female’ artist, rejecting the need for differentiation. Alongside this, Oppenheim played the muse to Man Ray in his ‘Erotique Voilee’ works, posing naked and interacting with a printing press.
Exploring both sides of this dynamic meant this was a collection of contrasts. Strong, tailored pieces provided a common thread for A/W 19 – but bursts of soft colours brought traditional feminine aesthetics into the mix.
Plenty of nods to the 70s were made – a decade we’ve been watching resurface, recently – with corduroy suits and trench coats, and oversized collars layered over suit jackets.
My personal highlight? A leather jacket marrying all of these trends – strong tailoring, 70s references – and playful block colouring.
Ultimately, this was a collection about striking a balance – and a nice reflection on the multi-faceted nature of womenswear, and feminine dressing.
Fashion month can be overwhelming. All the coverage makes it easy to feel inspired, but how do you cut through the noise? Head here for all of WGSN’s trend expertise this fashion season.
Subscribers can stay up-to-date with Alice here.
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.