Jan 08, 2020 | By Nick Paget
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After show-hopping – and a team debrief – the WGSN Catwalks editors call out the most exciting and directional emerging trends – and we’re reviewing some of our favourite moments, too.
Grey skies over London made the perfect backdrop for Eudon Choi’s soft-brutalist show setting. In the shadow of the imposing Southbank Centre, equally stark shipping containers were transformed into a makeshift runway for Choi’s A/W 19 offering.
This was a collection inspired by the relationship between art and femininity – with women as both makers and muses. Choi draws particular reference from Meret Oppenheim, who famously refused to be described as a ‘female’ artist, rejecting the need for differentiation. Alongside this, Oppenheim played the muse to Man Ray in his ‘Erotique Voilee’ works, posing naked and interacting with a printing press.
Exploring both sides of this dynamic meant this was a collection of contrasts. Strong, tailored pieces provided a common thread for A/W 19 – but bursts of soft colours brought traditional feminine aesthetics into the mix.
Plenty of nods to the 70s were made – a decade we’ve been watching resurface, recently – with corduroy suits and trench coats, and oversized collars layered over suit jackets.
My personal highlight? A leather jacket marrying all of these trends – strong tailoring, 70s references – and playful block colouring.
Ultimately, this was a collection about striking a balance – and a nice reflection on the multi-faceted nature of womenswear, and feminine dressing.
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