Jan 17, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
Milan: Kean Etro chose the shore as his inspiration for S/S 12, and with tartan plaids, double-breasted suits and piped blazers, it was easy to imagine someone like the Duke of Windsor on holiday in the Mediterranean or Riviera. The nod to the nautical was emphasized by a blue scrim at the top of the runway, upon which shadows of sailing ships and seagulls were projected; the show was accompanied by a live soundtrack performed by improvisational pianist and composer Cesare Picco. The house’s trademark paisley prints were much more muted than past seasons, often used as jacket linings and suit underpinnings instead of the head-to-toe motifs we’ve come to expect (although there were some — it’s Etro after all). Blue paisley and polka-dots mixed as easily as the seaside breezes, and solid bright trousers in shades of orange and yellow were a definite must-have. True to Etro tradition, fabrics were natural rather than technical, with some jackets and trousers fashioned out of hemp. As always, the happy-go-lucky feeling of Etro left us yearning for a quick getaway to the coast before proceeding onto Paris for the second week of runway shows. —Michael Fisher
Color: Navy / Ivory / Sage / Pink / Yellow / Orange / Grey / Berry pink and purple
Key Items: Prince of Wales plaid pants / Navy and grey blazers with contrast piping / Silk shirts / Double-breasted plaid suits / Bermuda shorts / V-neck intarsia sweaters / Allover printed shirts / Lightweight turtleneck sweaters
Materials: Cotton / Hemp / Silk / Terrycloth
Details + Trim: Contrast piping on blazers / Overdyed plaids for shirtings / Shell buttons on jackets and blazers / Contrasting stitching for buttonholes
Accessories + Footwear: Braided belts / Silk scarves and neckerchiefs / Bunched wool socks / Burnished penny loafers / Patterned ties
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