: Spring in its blossoming vibrancy and cerulean skies is ever the appropriate muse for Erdem Moralioglu. Although last season’s dark, bone-chilling days forced the designer out of his comfort zone and in an edgier, perhaps, more compelling direction, Spring saw him return to the dreamy, romantic style he is known for. Erdem’s signature florals – a medley of violets, irises, daisies and poppies – decorated gossamer frocks, prim sheaths and floor-sweeping gowns fit for the finest of garden parties. The collection worked best, however, when Moralioglu juxtaposed all the dainty delicacy with more casual separates like sporty tees, mannish button-ups and slim pants. Moralioglu continues to develop into a more complex designer, and while this collection may have been the picture of ladylike propriety on the outside, a closer inspection revealed intriguing hints of subversion throughout: burnout organza exposed fractals of flesh, transparent skirts bared cheeky hot pants and lacy insets served as windows into his muse’s true nature. – Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Fit ‘n’ flare / Column / Off-the-shoulder

Color: Wedgwood blue / Daffodil / Iris / Poppy orange

Key Items: Day sheath / Slip dress / Lace circle skirt / Hot pants / Printed trench coat / Floral-printed button-up

Print + Pattern: Mirror-image floral collages

Materials: Chantilly lace / Irish crochet / Burnout organza / Chiffon

Details + Trim: Accordion pleats / Corset details / Printed sequins

Accessories + Footwear: Mini boater hat / Ankle-strap pumps / Lace gloves

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