May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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THE DARK SIDE
London: Designer Erdem Moralioglu shifted his focus from pleasant florals to darker fare for fall. The show opened with a series of black ensembles, setting the mood for the collection. Though decidedly more somber, the looks still embodied the romance and femininity for which the label is known. Ostrich feathers, velvet floral jacquards, large paillettes, and sparkling tweed communicated a sense of luxury, while high ruffled necklines suggested a Victorian influence. When the designer eventually included color, it was mostly of the subdued variety, with burgundies and navies in heavy rotation. His signatures florals all featured dark grounds. Layers of black organza muted pale dresses and floral separates and were shaped into standout capes and coats. The theme from Psycho played as the show came to a close, underlining the new dark mood and giving the looks an unsettling allure. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Hourglass / Boxy / Rounded / Easy A-line / Long layers
Color: Black / Navy / Burgundy / Pinkish orange / Kelly green / Optic white / Lavender / Dusty blue / Lemon-lime / Blush
Key Items: Sparkly tweed separates / Organza coat / Dark-ground floral dresses / Feather cocktail dresses
Materials: Organza / Sparkly tweed / Jacquard / Velvet / Printed silks / Matte wool / Shaggy yarns / Lace / Satin / Swiss dot
Print + Pattern: Dark-ground florals / Damask
Details + Trim: Ostrich feathers / Organza veiling / Flower appliqués / Sheer panels / Ruffled Victorian collars / Large paillettes / Contrast collars and linings
Accessories + Footwear: Skinny belts / Cap-toe Mary Janes
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