Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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SWEETNESS + SEDUCTION
New York: Erdem Moralioglu has developed an expert formula, deftly mixing his signature brand of sweetness with a hint of perversity and making for clothes that are both feminine and alluring. For Pre-Fall, the designer continued this exploration, but incorporated techy details and fabrics that gave his looks an added edge. In addition to elegant lace and lustrous jacquards, Moralioglu also included transparent PVC, iridescent organza, and oversized plastic paillettes. His floral prints, always a highlight, were broken up and manipulated to form plaid or houndstooth patterns. Jarring yellow sequins added tonal interest and texture. The items themselves came in classic shapes with a subtle 60s influence. There were form-fitting sheaths, fit-and-flare dresses, and A-line coats, many featuring prim contrast collars. The new materials and advanced printing techniques demonstrated a new commitment to innovation and increased the garments’ appeal.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: A-line / Fit-and-flare / Hourglass / Dropped flounce / Boxy
Color: Kelly green / Fuchsia / Navy / Acid yellow / Lipstick red / Ivory
Key Items: Printed dresses / Organza cape / Lace A-line coat / Boxy woven tees / Slim patterned pants
Materials: Jacquard / Satin / Lace / Printed silks / Organza (both iridescent and not) / PVC / Double-faced wool blends
Print + Pattern: Lush florals / Florals digitally manipulated into plaid or houndstooth patterns
Details + Trim: Oversized plastic paillettes / Sequins / Lace overlays / Piecing / Contrast collars / Fur collars
Accessories + Footwear: Chunky printed platforms with wide straps
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