London: An acidic take on retro suffused Erdem Moralioglu’s latest collection, a bombastic update of prim classics like the pencil skirt, cardigan sets and small collar silk blouses. A wild, unexpected jolt of tangerine, high-octane yellow and sapphire blue played against a base of camel and black, creating a slightly disorienting juxtaposition which worked best via oversize placed florals. Details provided twists on basic outerwear as well; trench coats with lace overlay, oversize buttons on a trapeze jacket and lace appliqué running the length of a satin evening coat. Despite the many ornate showpieces, Moralioglu included a satisfying foundation of layering items, relying on skinny knit turtlenecks to tone down the dressier ensembles. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / A-line

Color: Tangerine / Black / Chartreuse / Camel / White / Royal blue

Key Items: Pencil skirts / Trench coats / Cardigans / Small collar blouses / Full skirts / Three quarter sleeve knits / Full trousers / Double breasted trapeze coats / Knit turtlenecks / Slim day dresses

Materials: Waxed cotton / Lace / Silk / Knits / Wool / Satin

Print + Pattern: Florals / Abstract swirls

Details + Trim: Draping / Pleating / Lace appliqué / Contrast buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Pointy-toe pumps

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