Ermenegildo Zegna

Milan: Ermenegildo Zegna is layering up for next season with menswear that’s made to cozy up against the Winter chill. The collection, called “Winter’s Tale,” featured a backdrop of digital video screens with crackling fires and a soundtrack that included roaring wind and Lloyd Cole’s “Forest Fire”. While the company’s signature slim plaid, checked and houndstooth suits remained a constant, it was the Après-ski styling that pleasantly surprised attendees. Anna Zegna told the press that the House wanted “self-indulgent, not show-off luxury” for F/W 12. Cashmere turtlenecks were layered under many of shirts and jackets, and plush fabrics like corduroy, wool bouclé and shearling added more ski-lodge-worthy coziness. Eveningwear was likewise relaxed. Tuxedos were silky and quilted — the opposite of the stiff and formal image they normally evoke. A dark robe coat of a brushed alpalca (called Spazzolino) billowed luxuriously over a white tuxedo shirt. No matter the inspiration, it’s Zegna’s focus on fabric innovation that keeps the collection fresh.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Camel / Winter white / Cadet blue / Black-blue / Charcoal / Beige / Caramel

Key Items: Corduroy three-piece suit / Fine gauge turtleneck sweaters / Intarsia sweaters / Shearling-lined outerwear / Fair Isle sweater / Marled sweater / Down-filled parkas / Checked two-button suits / Shawl collar quilted tuxedos / Capes / Pressed denim suits

Materials: Shearling / Corduroy / Cashmere / Moleskin cotton / Wool bouclé / Spazzolino, a brushed alpaca / Denim

Details + Trim: Leather piping / Thermo-embossing quilting effects on leather coats / Shearling linings / Floppy turtlenecks

Accessories + Footwear: Vintage-y plaid suitcases and carry-alls / Leather and shearling-lined gloves / Flat messenger bags / Burnished ankle boots

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