May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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COMMITTED TO THE CURVE
Milan: Giorgio Armani’s latest show for his Emporio line had a monochrome softness that obscured the complexity and breadth of the collection; Fall’s pastel tones and light neutrals creating a calm hush of lovely, sophisticated separates. From the beginning the silhouettes were curved, moving from wrapped, off-the-shoulder dresses into tapered tulip trousers, relaxed blazers, culottes and cap sleeve shells rendered in patterned silk and rigid organza. In order to maintain Armani’s feminine oval lines, detailing was limited, primarily funnel necks and inverse pleats, but a surprisingly broad range of accessories and footwear ran throughout. Classic 20s-inspired handbags and hats, a favorite of the designer, sat beside contemporary ankle boots, while the finale of velvet dresses featured spectacularly modern Frank Gehry-esque folds.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Asymmetric / Tapered / Tulip / Wrapped / Oval / A-line / Flat
Color: Light sage / Charcoal / Violet / Cobalt / Khaki / Dove grey / Forest green / Black / Banana cream / Baby blue / Turquoise / Lemon / Rose / Pale lime / Nude / Lavender
Key Items: Tapered trousers / Blanket coats / One shoulder wrap dresses / Wide cropped silk trousers / Cropped fur jackets woven with ribbons / Soft velvet blazers / Printed silk shorts / Menswear coats / Rigid organza pajama pants / Short sleeved funnel neck dresses / Wide culottes / Modern jackets with mutton sleeves / Shell tops with exaggerated hips / Flat velvet gowns
Materials: Velvet / Flannel / Mohair / Suede / Silk / Crêpe de chine / Tweed / Organza
Print + Pattern: Buffalo checks / Leaves / Colorblocking / Stained glass motifs / Stripes / Snakeskin / Leopard spots
Details + Trim: Wrapping / Scalloped edges / Round collars / Fringe / Zippers / Ribbon weave / Funnel necks / Pleating / Quilting / Mutton sleeves
Accessories + Footwear: Bowler hats / Berets / Folded pouches / Art Deco crystal brooches / Cloche hats / Draped velvet scarves / Low profile pointed ankle boots / Delicate tapestry print oxfords / Bow embellished suede pumps / Wide corset belts / Fringed fur wraps / Frame bags / Velvet headbands / Structured tote bags / Indian-style slippers / Enamel drop earrings / Animal print belts / Cuff bracelets / Velvet gloves / Cat eye sunglasses
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