May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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New York…Calvin Klein Collection
If we are to leave New York with one big new idea for F/W 09, it will be this, “texture”. In his showing for Calvin Klein Collection, Francisco Costa nailed this message to the wall. Save for one flash of sulfurous yellow, color was restricted to black and grey as one girl after another appeared dressed in simple, geometric pieces, often with asymmetric details, all the better to show off the wondrous surface treatments. Felted wool looked like lace, a knit had intricate pattern-work and velvet was laser-cut. After almost a week of bulked up proportions and protective layers it was Costa who showed us how to keep it clean and modern but with enough emotion to tug not just at the buyers’ heart strings but at their purse strings as well.
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