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Emilio de la Morena

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SOFT STRUCTURE

London: Emilio de la Morena tends toward dark structural pieces with touches of romance, but this season’s collection showcased the designer’s softer side. The pop art-inspired palette alone was a departure for the designer; the mint greens, cosmetic tones and mustard yellow with shades of pink felt compelling and new, perfect for this so-far optimistic season. The hard edges were still there in the angular paneled pieces that referenced the work of Spanish sculptor Eduardo Chillida, slick leather A-line skirts and futuristic pieced jackets. But feminine looks, like a ladylike suit featuring a full skirt and circular cutouts that revealed a colorful lining underneath, looked fresh. De la Morena’s new optimism suits him well, and his work has greatly benefited from this new direction.

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