Emilio de la Morena

Emilio de la Morena S/S 2013

London: Emilio de la Morena channeled his Spanish roots for his spring collection, sending out a riot of flamenco-inspired ruffles. They decorated collars and were layered on skirts and dresses. In perhaps a moment of overzealousness, they were also added to the cuffs of slim pants and walking shorts. De la Morena countered the dramatic flair of the ruffles with a precise geometric motif. These squares-within-squares were used as graphics for tanks and tees or shrunken down for an allover print on a pencil skirt. The relationship between flamboyance and restraint felt uneasy at times. The designer seems more confortable with structure rather than flounces, though his ode to his homeland was touching. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: Long and lean / Dropped waist / Fit-and-flare

Color: Black / White / Blush / Spanish red / Goldenrod

Key Items: Slim pants / Graphic woven tees / Ruffled dresses / Full skirts

Materials: Fluid silks / Crisp cotton / Organza / Taffeta / Piqué / Chiffon / Fine-gauge knits

Print + Pattern: Squares within squares / Pointillist roses

Details + Trim: Ruffles / Accordion pleats / Layering / Spaghetti straps / Piecing / halter necklines

Accessories + Footwear: Ruffled leather belts / Ankle strap platform pumps


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