Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: Emilio de la Morena channeled his Spanish roots for his spring collection, sending out a riot of flamenco-inspired ruffles. They decorated collars and were layered on skirts and dresses. In perhaps a moment of overzealousness, they were also added to the cuffs of slim pants and walking shorts. De la Morena countered the dramatic flair of the ruffles with a precise geometric motif. These squares-within-squares were used as graphics for tanks and tees or shrunken down for an allover print on a pencil skirt. The relationship between flamboyance and restraint felt uneasy at times. The designer seems more confortable with structure rather than flounces, though his ode to his homeland was touching. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long and lean / Dropped waist / Fit-and-flare
Color: Black / White / Blush / Spanish red / Goldenrod
Key Items: Slim pants / Graphic woven tees / Ruffled dresses / Full skirts
Materials: Fluid silks / Crisp cotton / Organza / Taffeta / Piqué / Chiffon / Fine-gauge knits
Print + Pattern: Squares within squares / Pointillist roses
Details + Trim: Ruffles / Accordion pleats / Layering / Spaghetti straps / Piecing / halter necklines
Accessories + Footwear: Ruffled leather belts / Ankle strap platform pumps
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