Emilio de la Morena


London: Morena has long established himself as a champion of ladylike looks. This season the designer explored Victorian sensuality with a play on high collars, geometric shapes and peek-a-boo fabrics. Strict, body-conscious silhouettes forced the models to walk with a swing to their hips, and the ribbon-tied Charlotte Olympia-designed shoes only added to the effect. The key piece of the collection was the pencil skirt – some were hemmed with transparent organza, others were decorated with patches of silk, transparent inserts or even ruffles. Almost all were composed of panels that skimmed over one another to create movement and layers. Intricate ribbon work decorated many of the pieces, offering a sophisticated tribal feeling; the collection as a whole could have used a bit more of that drama.

Color: Black / Tomato / Dark purple / Powder pink / Ivory

Key Items: Pencil skirts / Tiered skirts / Draped dresses / Zigzag pencil prints

Materials: Lurex / Wool / Silk / Leather / Organza

Print + Pattern: Geometric inserts / Fish scale weaves / Leather tubing in grid-like shapes

Details + Trim
: Ruffled silk inserts / High necks / Bib decoration

Accessories + Footwear
: Platform suede ankle boot with shiny ribbon straps / Platform suede sandal

View Collection Images

Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.