We have to focus on who’s coming up to keep the industry dynamic and strong. Discovering and nurturing new talent has never been more important, says Deux Hommes’ Managing Editor Amy Vosejpka
Long ago, we realised the potential impact emerging designers would have on the fashion industry which is why we, at Deux Hommes magazine, have built our entire business around it. Through our digital fashion platform, we strive to feature a curated list of emerging designers in the luxury sportswear, avant-garde and high-end streetwear markets worldwide, supporting their efforts, celebrating their successes and pushing their relevancy into the faces of every fashion industry personnel we possibly can.
Although it is clearly a no-brainer to us as to why these designers are the best in industry, we are often asked as to why emerging designers are so relevant. In the last few years, we have seen an increasing “trend” of not only award opportunities – H&M Design Award, LVMH Prize and the coveted CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award – but also commercial giants fighting for the best of the best to head their brands or collaborate with.
Even companies whose primary purpose has nothing to do with the fashion industry, such as athletic titans Nike and Adidas as well as beauty behemoth Lancôme, have an interest in utilising these unknown designers from the likes of John Elliott, Mary Kantrantzou and Jacquemus, respectively, to help their brands to further success or reinvention.
Besides the significant monetary differences between employing a new talent versus an industry vet, huge conglomerates are looking to inject a breath of fresh air and new life into century old brands, and quite frankly, it doesn’t get much more fresh than bringing in a chunk of youth in the form of a newly graduated designer.
And, while these neophytes may not have the same experience under their belts as, say, a Karl Lagerfeld, they are changing the way the world views fashion one calculated risk at a time. It is these risks in silhouettes, as seen by Chinese brand Wen Jun, and complex draping à la Brit James Kelly, that are progressively moving fashion forward through innovation and freedom to experiment without having the pressure from shareholders and CEOs to create commercial collections for the masses that hit the quarterly sales quota.
Further, indie designers, like Parisian footwear brand Rombaut and India-based BEHNO, are making enormous efforts and strides in eco- and animal-sustainability, relying on much less of a budget— withal profit— than commercial labels who have unlimited financial and product resources.
The take home? Get on the bandwagon. Because these talents are unquestionably the voices of tomorrow.
FUTURE TALENT: Need to know who’s going to be big next? We’ve got you covered – across every area of design. Our experts and trend forecasters are on the ground at every grad show discovering the next generation. Sound good? Join WGSN.