May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: The house of Emanuel Ungaro has had a turbulent few years. It has gone through changes in ownership and designers, some respectable (Giles Deacon) and others…well, not so much (Lindsey Lohan). But with the formidable Aeffe, which holds Alberta Ferretti and Jean Paul Gaultier, as its new owner and up-and-coming Milan designer Fausto Puglisi as its creative director, Ungaro may have a real chance at success this time around. For his debut collection, Puglisi borrowed elements from the house’s history, while still infusing the looks with his own glamorous style. The recurring polka dot pattern was an Ungaro favorite, and sharp shoulders were a nod to his heyday in the eighties. Puglisi placed his stamp on the offering with gilded appliqués in the shape of butterflies and flowers. The lemon yellow, aqua, and Yves Klein blue tones were another Puglisi contribution. After this promising collection, fashion followers are surely crossing their fingers that this owner-designer combination will finally stick. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Broad shoulders / Asymmetrical / Tapered / Slouchy / Hourglass
Color: Black / White / Lemon yellow / Aqua / Yves Klein blue / Warm brown
Key Items: Slit skirts / Slouchy trousers / Sharp-shouldered blazers and tops / One-shoulder tops / Billowy-sleeved blouses
Materials: Wool suitings / Matte silks / Leather / Fine-gauge jersey / Luxe fur / CDC / Astrakhan / Neoprene
Print + Pattern: Large and small polka dots / Animal print
Details + Trim: Gold paillette and jewel butterfly and flower appliqués / Turtlenecks / Extended shoulders / Wrap closures / Gold square buttons / Poet sleeves / Single sleeves / Piecing
Accessories + Footwear: Gold butterfly pins / Medium-width leather belts / Pointy-toe pumps / Pointy-toe ankle boots
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