Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Menswear and the 1980s seemed to be the inspirations behind Estrella Archs’ latest collection for Emanuel Ungaro. Cropped trousers, tuxedo jackets, suiting separates, and silk cummerbunds made up the majority of the collection’s item selection. By tweaking the fits and moving the seam placements of men’s standby pieces, Archs created items that looked appealingly professional-femme. And because 80s power-dressing already offered plenty of menswear looks for women, other design details from the decade were naturally complementary. Polka dots, asymmetry, pleated trouser styles, backless dresses, and off-the-shoulder tops were all presented in a cheerful black, fuchsia, emerald, cobalt, and orange-red palette. Bright accessories contrasted black tights and dark flirty cocktail dresses, and a fadeout leopard print was the designer’s choice motif for versatile day-to-early-evening pieces. Slightly waved tresses worn in dramatic side-parts and frosty eyelids completed each ensemble, most of which seemed to be for girls who like to work hard and play hard. One could argue that 1980s looks are slowly fading out of fashion, but it should also be noted that themes from the 80s are truly Ungaro, and focusing on a label’s core aesthetic is an idea that’s currently front-and-center.
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