Ecclesiastical robes at Rory Parnell-Mooney

Making his debut on the MAN schedule this season, Irish-born designer Parnell-Mooney further explored the focus on ecclesiastical dressing and sombre colour that defined his graduate collection. He combined exaggerated volume with tonal shades of darkest blue and black to create dark, robe-like silhouettes, layering homespun textures and unfinished edges with premium high-sheen finishes and bonded structures for a humble tech feel. Detail was kept to a basic minimum – functional plastic buckles and webbing straps – allowing the reworked shapes to do the talking. His simple tunic shirts, wide-leg trousers and cropped boxy jackets highlighting a stripping back of familiar shapes that lent classic items a utilitarian and honest feel, in keeping with the quietly self-assured mood of the show.  – Ben Perdue

Theme: Ecclesiastical robes

Key items: Oversized mock turtle-neck sweaters / Tunic shirts / Collarless edge-to-edge jackets / Tabards / Wide-leg twin-pleat trousers / Cropped carrot-leg trousers / raw edge overcoats / Boxy jackets

Colour: Black / Charcoal / Indigo / Navy blue / Cadet blue

Materials & knits:  Cheesecloth / Felted wool / Mohair / Cotton shirting / Silk blends / Crepe / Linen

Footwear: Strapped monkey boots

Accessories: Money belts / Veiled visors

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