Duckie Brown

New York: Daniel Silver and Steven Cox never shy away from quirky, offbeat English influences. For S/S 12, the designers told the New York Times that their source of inspiration was “Bexleyheath boys,” young working-class men who are characterized by their loutish behavior and by wearing tracksuits and hooded sweatshirts. But in this duo’s hands the archetype was transformed, and the result was a testament to what modern minimalism is all about: updated fits and cleaned-up classics like nylon bomber jackets, carrot-leg pleated pants, “shifted hem” sweatshirts, and wax-coated fishtail parkas. The overall urbane attitude was perfect for a season focused on elegance that’s a little rough around the edges. A final exit of floral organza activewear was an unexpected, if not romantic conclusion to a collection full of subtle contrasts.  —Michael Fisher

Silhouette: Relaxed and tapered

Color: Black / Indigo blue / Grey / Stone / Pale green / White

Key Items: “Stealth” bomber jacket / Six pleat pants / Nylon T-shirts / Open weave sweatshirts / Puffer vest / Track suits / Three-button jackets / “Shifted hem” sweatshirts / Cuffed pants / Waxed-coated fishtail parka / Multi-pocket work shirt / Organza hoodies

Materials: Nylon / Tweed / Jersey / Wax-coated cotton / Organza / Denim / Silk

Details + Trim: Satin waistbands for knits / Cargo pockets / Webbed taping on hoods / Three-button silhouette / Multiple pleats / Elastic cuffs on pants / Exposed zippers

Footwear: Suede work boots

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