Duckie Brown

New York: Duckie duo Daniel Silver and Steven Cox continued to explore longtime fascinations with gender and scale in their S/S 13 collection, parading down the runway a host of tattooed models draped varyingly in voluminous or trim trousers cut from the toughest – dare we say thuggish – materials like ironclad denim and aggressive red and black tartan.  With massive trousers anchored by weighty 10-inch “passport” cuffs, trucker and Harrington jackets, and skinny punk pants shown in various combinations, the collection at first appeared hyper-masculine and macho, but a model’s turn revealed some of the jackets to be backless, a first hint that all was not as simple as it looked. When pleated shirts and a bomber jacket boasting a masterfully crafted fabric flower appeared revealing a couturier’s hand, it was clear that this season was a poetic expression of masculinity — made all the more poignant when enhanced by subtle hits of femininity. —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Voluminous variations

Color: Indigo / Cream / Silver tan / Off white / Jet black / Scarlet / Navy Carmel / Bleached indigo

Key Items: Backless Harrington jacket / Wide-leg trousers with 10-inch “passport” cuffs / Denim trucker and work jackets / Motorcycle jacket / Baseball jacket / Cuffed shorts / Red Inverness Tartan tuxedo jacket

Materials: Raw denim / Bleached denim / Tweed / Tartan / Canvas / Leather / Silk / Jersey / Linen / Shibori dyed cotton

Print + Pattern: Herringbone / Red and Black Ettick Tartan / Red Inverness Tartan

Details + Trim: Cutaway backs / 10-inch cuffs / Pleats

Accessories + Footwear: Closed lacing white cap-toe oxfords


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