May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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AN OFFICER AND A GENTLEWOMAN
Milan: The Dsquared² boys love a bit of a Victor-Victoria vibe and F/W 13 was no exception, offering up MGM Grand-worthy masculine tailoring, vampy skirt suits and cocktail hour outfits in equal rotation. Flanked by dashing men in uniform, models clutching cigarette holders channeled Marlene Dietrich—herself a star at pulling off both double-breasted suits and marabou-trimmed gowns with aplomb. This was Golden Era Hollywood redux, complete with beaded bias-cut dresses (the Catens opened the show with a blush-tone spaghetti strap version, creating costume drama from the get-go), nipped-waist 40s skirt suits, tweed tailoring and velvet smoking ensembles. Changing pace from Spring’s parade of rip-roaring 90s biker babes, this collection saw the duo embrace grown-up glamour, replacing short and tight with long and lean, and ladies who left a little more to the imagination. —Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Tailored / Belted / Layered / 40s
Color: Ivory / Gray / Spearmint / Duck egg blue / Plum / Sunshine yellow / Hot pink / Bronze / Forest green / Blush / Sable / Ecru / Navy / Charcoal / Pewter
Key Items: The double-breasted suit / Loose-cut slacks / Fur coats / Pencil skirts / Bias-cut gowns / Pussy-bow blouses / Smoking suits / Wool dress coats / Tuxedo pants
Materials: Wool / Flannel / Fur / Cashmere / Silk / Satin / Chiffon / Organza / Tweed / Velvet / Leather / Lurex / Angora
Print + Pattern: Herringbone paillette
Details + Trim: Marabou trim / Fine gold beadwork / Spaghetti straps / Fur collars / Contrast silk lining / Trench coat details / Paillettes / Flap pockets / Shawl collars
Accessories + Footwear: Felt fedoras / Berets / Silk turban caps / Bow-ties / Ties / Clutches / Brooches / Platform sandals with socks / Leather waist belts / Fur stoles / Jeweled cuffs, earrings and statement necklaces / Wrist and elbow-length gloves
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