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OFFICER HEP CAT
Milan: The Caten brothers showed a collection ripe with nostalgia for a time gone by, when US GIs wore chunky olive overcoats on the battlefields of Europe and cool-guy fedoras in the dance halls back home. The Caten’s designs shifted between military utility and jazzy hipsterisms, with models sporting well-made garments that found grounding in utility. Tartan tuxedo coats and wide-straight denim moved things forward while staying true to the brothers’ mission of keeping things simple and cool. Nearly all the models wore headgear – either military style garrison caps or tall-crowned fedoras, and perhaps in homage to jazz great Dizzy Gillespie, they also sported thick, black framed eyeglasses. Though this collection was mostly about basics, opulent items appeared tastefully placed throughout, especially lush astrakhan overcoats and velvet tuxedo jackets. Ultimately, this shows most lasting contribution to upcoming fashion may be the wide, straight and cropped silhouette of the trousers and denim many models wore – both a welcome change from recent skinny trouser trends.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Straight up

Color: Cardinal / Emerald / Olive drab / Granite / Milk chocolate / Khaki

Key Items: Retro GI’s overcoat / Wool cargos / Double-breasted overcoat / Wide, straight denim / Double-breasted wool flannel suits / Velvet tartan tuxedo jacket / Chinos / Chunky shawl-collar cardigan / Fur collar car coat / Astrakhan overcoat

Materials: Wool flannel / Denim  / Felt / Astrakhan / Silk /

Print + Pattern: Black Watch and other tartans / Pinstripes / Windowpane check / Foulard prints / Faire Isle intarsias / Paisley / Florals

Details + Trim: Ticket pockets / Trouser patch pockets / Oversized cuffs – folded and tailored / Paint and oil splatters / Fringe

Accessories + Footwear: Leather braces / Round eyeglasses / Tall crown fedoras / Leather travel bags and briefcases / Garrison caps / Wingtip brogue boots / Brooches / Bowties / Wool scarves / Two-tone cap toes

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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