Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Images of David Bowie during his Ziggy Stardust days and photos of Nijinsky in the Ballets Russes were Dries Van Noten’s jumping-off points for his masterful fall collection. The seemingly incongruous references combined for a total effect that was all opulence and sophistication. Shades of Bowie appeared with gold brocades and jacquards and swirling psychedelic motifs, while intricate details including subtle beading and pieced leathers recalled the spectacular Leon Bakst costumes for Diaghilev’s ballets. Zigzags and geometric motifs conjured the Russian Constructivist dance costumes by artists Lyubov Popova and Varvara Stepanova, which were created in the same era as the Ballets Russes. All artistic references aside, the clothes captured Van Noten’s signature balance of sophistication, ebullience and wearability, and their subtle richness felt right.
Color: Black / White / Deep red / Caramel / Gold / Dark green / Vivid blue / Lemon yellow / Silver
Key Items: Collaged dresses / Wide-leg trousers / Statement jackets / Pieced fur coats
Materials: Jacquard / Brocade / Wool suitings / Fur / Fluid silks & satins / Chunky yarns / Python / Salt-and-pepper tweed
Print + Pattern: Zig-zags / Swirling psychedelics / Geometrics / Florals / Abstract & texture motifs
Details + Trim: Intricate beading / Piecing & collaging / Fur lapels & sleeves / Contrast sleeves & collars / Sequins
Accessories + Footwear: Rectangular sunglasses / Python cuffs / Skinny belts / Envelope clutches / Patterned socks / Booties (some with contrast toe) / Open-toe color-blocked mules
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