Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Dries Van Noten admitted to having revisited his archives this season, for a stunningly strong collection that seemed to be created effortlessly. With models gliding down a Parisian underground garage, the hypnotically beautiful ensembles had the unselfconscious chic of the Grey Gardens ladies. The 1930s-flavored silhouettes and the delicate layering combined with checked shirts were suggestive of WWII Land Girls, abandoning the cities for hard work and country life without losing their glamour and red lipstick. “I see a strong independent woman that wants to have fun with clothes, who has abandoned the minimal,” says Dries. The designer is famously passionate about gardening, and there were beautiful flora in prints and appliqués — almost transparent, fragile and airy. “The collection captures punk, couture, vintage, 80s rock and anything I loved in the past and the present,” continued a beaming Dries. Layer upon layer of printed chiffon dresses, pajama pants, robes and deconstructed tailoring made for an accessible and romantic offering. Workwear-ish madras shirts collided with seductive evening gowns and tuxedo coats without ever appearing costume-y – only chic, contemporary and fun. These were clothes to spark dreams. — Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Layered / Dropped waist / Deconstructed menswear / 30s
Color: Faded Coral / Lilac / Vintage blue / Cerulean / Powder / Indigo / Ivory
Key Items: Sleeveless blazers / Artists’ coats / Madras checked shirts / Chiffon dresses / Raglan shoulder tunics / The smoking jacket / Pajama trousers
Materials: Silk organza / Lightweight wool / Jacquards / Silk georgette / Tulle / Cotton-silk / Mesh / Silk velvet, both printed and plain
Print + Pattern: Painterly flower motifs / Madras checks / Almost faded flowers / Metallic jacquards / Quilting / Small black &white checks
Details + Trim: Flower appliqués in Tulle, Metallic fabrics and in Silk / Elaborate beading / Small fringe / Asian-inspired embroidery / Contrasting fabrics and print
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