May 29, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
Paris: As an influential (and beloved) force in contemporary fashion, Dries Van Noten never fails in defining effortlessly modern menswear that is simultaneously directional and wearable. After last season’s lavish sartorial approach, the designer returned to sportswear for S/S 12, showing his collection in a Parisian garage (the designer often chooses industrial settings) with striped walls and columns that were reflected in an assortment full of active influences and masculine colors. Waterproof rainwear was a key element; billowing parkas, slick blousons and anoraks in silk and paper-thin taffeta flew down the catwalk. Function and practicality were central themes, along with Van Noten’s precise and enviable tailoring. Crisp white shirts, striped sweaters and slim pants in fine silk were all modernized classics — wardrobe essentials that have become the identifiable handwriting of Van Noten’s designs. —Michael Fisher
Color: Midnight blue / Black / Scarlet red / White / Slicker yellow / Trench coat tan
Key Items: Hybrid outerwear / Tapered tailored pants / Nylon parkas / Color-blocked woven shirts / Openwork crewneck sweaters / Striped silk blazers
Materials: Silk / Nylon / Taffeta / Cotton poplin
Details + Trim: Exposed taping / Contrast piping on outerwear / Leather paneling / Color-blocking / Pieced construction / Draw string cuffs on pants / Pleats and extended waist tabs for pants / Small point collar on shirts / Contrast stitching
Accessories + Footwear: Leather thong sandals / Plastic aviator sunglasses
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