Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2016: A compelling mish-mash
By Lizzy Bowring

From the models’ hair rolled in 1940s chignons to the 1980s inspired jackets, it was all thoughtfully styled with an edge bordering on brilliant. WGSN Catwalks Director Lizzy Bowring reports

Oct 01, 2015
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Dries van Noten
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Paris: A riot of vibrant colours and compelling ebullience flowed throughout the Spring collection Dries Van Noten sent forth in Paris and all to the haunting performance of a string quartet playing in the background. There may have been a blend of all the ideas Dries has loved, but it was the mix of colour and pattern permeated Van Noten’s collection, cleverly controlled in bi-colour patterns with the emphasis on sumptuous brocades, jacquards and satins.

Here was a seeming mish-mash of ideas – from the models hair rolled in 1940s chignons to the 1980s inspired jackets and 1950s bras, but under Van Noten’s masterful hands, it was all thoughtfully styled with an edge bordering on brilliant. From the oversized sartorial jackets to the vibrant pink satin coat that was teamed with a skirt in what looked like the wings of a Phoenix – all were bathed in fascinating clashes of purple, yellow, blue, and watermelon.

The accoutrements underscored in tattoo-like patterns on gloves, socks, and turtlenecks, which in turn were a beautiful oxymoron to the lineup. “Eccentric can be a sad old lady with twenty-five cats. A flamboyant lady is the lady who lives. She wears and she dares and she has fun,” said Van Noten – all the more reason to love all that this creative genius presents.

Theme: Wear, dare and have fun in a mish-mash of eras.

Key items: Wide trousers, swing coats, elongated jackets, bra tops, tulle skirts, cropped trousers.

Colour: Hot pink, navy, yellow, orange, purple, gold, watermelon.

Print and pattern: Graphic geometrics, tribal tattoos, Phoenix wings, gold leaf embroidery.

Trims and materials: Sequins, jacquards, brocade, shot silk, frills.

Footwear and accessories: High platforms, single choker, small clutch bags.

MORE: The critics’ verdict on Dries Van Noten

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