Dries Van Noten PFW AW16: Dark Romance
By Lizzy Bowring

WGSN Head of Catwalks Lizzy Bowring shares her review of the collection and highlights the key items

Mar 04, 2016


Paris: Where to begin! Dries Van Noten presented a noble, elegant and seductive collection for Fall 2016, taking inspiration from the eccentricities and times of Marchesa Luisa Casati, patron of the arts, who embarked on a decadent affair with the poet Gabriele D’Annunzio. It is from here that Dries struck an unequivocal parity of ‘gender dressing; the cross referencing of an artistic, intelligent woman who “wanted to push decadence as a lifestyle” and the controlled masculine references from the era. Casati also possessed an intense love of pearls, snakes and leopards and so these became the print motifs in sweeping capes, and coats, while fluid trousers came paired with neat blazers and cricket sweaters. Pearls were found embellished over the most simple of sheath dresses and sartorial suits that brought this seductive presentation to a close. – Lizzy Bowring

Key Trends: Dark Romance, Cross-gender dressing

Colour: Black, White, Ivy green, Purple, Cream, Deep wine, Bottle green, Gold

Key Items: Dark suits, Pique shirts, Leopard spot cloaks an trousers, Cricket sweaters, Dressing gown coats, Pyjamas, Overlaid skirts, Crested vest, Blazer, Fluid trousers, Masculine shirts, Oversized sweaters, Fur collared leopard print coat, Greatcoat, Masculine trouser suit, Pearl encrusted sheath

Trims and Materials: Fur, Lame, Cotton pique, Sequins, Embroidery, Contrast piping, Metallic jacquard, Menswear shirting, Menswear plaids, Silk chemise, Velvet, Pearls

Print and Pattern: Snakeskin patterns, leopard, Broken pearl motif, Menswear stripes, Oxford strips,

Footwear and Accessories: Gold lame shoes, Ties, Pearl topped pins, Top handle bags, Snakeskin shoes, Fur stole, Velvet boots, Feathered and velvet chokers

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