May 17, 2017 | By WGSN Insider
Big data meets consumer insights. Experience WGSN.
Oct 01, 2015
By WGSN Insider
Paris Fashion Week may have started with some low-key labels but Wednesday really saw it shifting into a higher gear as two of its favourite sons sent out a new fashion vision to universal acclaim.
Both Dries Van Noten and John Galliano (at Maison Margiela) can be a little hard for the outside world to get their heads around at times. But the critics were unanimous about their respective offers for Spring/Summer 2016. It was a definite thumbs-up.
Galliano, the controversial ex-Dior designer, has already given Margiela a boost just by his presence (only a few months ago the company’s CEO said sales started to rise as soon as his contract was announced, even before any Galliano-penned product hit the shelves).
So will his new offer push those sales further? Most likely. His ‘Lo-fi,sci-fi’ collection was actually a mix of retro and modern that was more Galliano than Margiela – but that’s surely not a problem given the designer’s ability to convince women to part with serious cash for his clothes and accessories.
It had a vintage edge, a hint of Japanese and the boys-dressed-as-girls theme we’ve got used to with Galliano lately. As Vogue Runway said: “Galliano is back on his game again.”
Van Noten’s offer was an easier buy-in with what the critics agreed were visually appealing colours and fabrics and some strong shapes.
Cue gemstone colours, shimmering silk brocades, and some great two-colour patterns. They were used for three-quarter-sleeved duster coats, shirts with full skirts, bras over T-shirts and a lingerie-meets-tailoring edge.
The New York Times called it a “rich eccentric vibe” while WWD said it was “elegantly tailored bohemianism with a wry sensuality that both mocked and embraced commonly held notions of sexy dressing,” and both those descriptions just about summed it up.
NEED TREND INFO FAST? Check out WGSN’s YouTube for our latest episodes of Trend Minute.
STAY UP TO DATE: You want the need-to-know news, right? Our journalists deliver a daily curation of the most important industry happenings. Sound good? Join WGSN.
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.