Dries Van Noten

Paris: Dries Van Noten’s F/W 12 collection, called “Psychedelic Elegance”, drew inspiration from Oscar Wilde and Frank Zappa — an odd couple of iconoclasts which the Belgian designer managed to meld in his upbeat, experimental collection. In keeping with the out-of-the-box muses, models walked to a narration of Wilde’s The Happy Prince while Dutch artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters painted a mural in the background that combined the Irish poet’s phrases (in retro sixties calligraphy) and what seemed like the inside of Zappa’s mind on an acid trip. Even with all the overstimulation, the clothes themselves were as refined and wearable as ever. The juxtaposition of posh Victorian outerwear with late 60s styles like mohair sweaters and eye-popping prints somehow worked, creating a seamless fusion of the slightly offbeat with the certainly sophisticated.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Black / White / Bottle green / Fluorescents / Charcoal / Olive / Fuschia / Rust

Key Items: Pea coats / Self-belt greatcoats / Military overcoats / Shaggy turtleneck sweater / Printed jackets and shirts / Woven turtleneck shirts / Fur-trimmed shawl collar coat / Double-breasted suits / Slim denim / Intarsia cable knit sweaters / Point collar shirts

Materials: Melton wool / Astrakhan / Cotton poplin / Denim

Details + Trim: Double collars on outerwear and tailored jackets / Double-breasted silhouette / Ticket pockets / Exposed zippers

Accessories + Footwear: Leather clutch bags / “Showstring” leather belts / Monk strap shoes /

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