Nov 01, 2017 | By Nick Paget
ROUGH + REFINED
Paris: Taking place in an underground cement bunker full of graffiti and oil stains, Dries Van Noten’s S/S 11 collection had the edge of East Berlin combined with the expected refinement of the designer’s tailored clothing and signature patterns. The clean lines of a Mod with the “rough around the edges” attitude of a skinhead came together subtly yet brilliantly, with unexpected touches like combat boots, cargo shorts and splotchy bleached denim working hand-in-hand with double-breasted blazers, pieced bomber jackets and windowpane plaid pants. The brooding style was further expanded onto Van Noten’s classic cardigans, this time intentionally snagged and embellished with leather straps. Even classic tees and slouchy tank tops were dressed up in the designer’s world, shown with pleated tailored shorts. The graffiti-ish paint spots on a handful of woven shirts seemed offhand, but were actually painstakingly created by a Lake Como atelier, another reminder that even if Van Noten chose a tough and spirited look, he’s still designing for an urbane and sophisticated man.
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