Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Using Dior’s New Look hourglass as a starting point, Dries Van Noten re-sculpted the iconic silhouette into shapely jackets and full skirts that embodied his distinctive brand of elegant ease. Outerwear and dresses were fashioned out of supple fabrics, with soft box pleats creating ergonomic volumes at the hip, waists gently defined with curved seams, and plenty of wiggle room across the shoulders. The label’s sophisticated safarian was there, but the utilitarian olive drabs and khakis were worked against rich jewel tones; cargo pockets brought practicality to full-skirted frocks and trench coats were distilled into A-line skirts. Although one of his more minimalist seasons, Van Noten did feature a plethora of his appealing prints as well as romantic pieces like ankle-grazing skirts. Leopard print silk blouses and pencil skirts streaked with watercolor florals should appease his print-hungry fans, but the loose jersey sweatshirts and tees that topped them suggested Dries at his slouchy, poetic best.
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