Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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HEAVEN, I’M IN HEAVEN
Paris: For F/W 13, Dries Van Noten returned to the magnificent Hotel de Ville, where the models glided softly along the catwalk to Irving Berlin’s Cheek to Cheek. “It’s about ballroom dancing, it’s a happy collection,” said Dries, post show. “It’s about layering, boudoir dressing and embellishment.” Dries continued his play with gender, nonchalantly layering menswear suits over feminine ballroom-inspired dresses and delicate embroideries. There was a mélange of cultural references: sparkling jacquards, paisleys, multicolored “deck stripes”, Indonesian flowers and cable knits were all combined with heritage fabrics, flirty fringes and feathers. Dries combined slightly over-sized “boyfriend” shirts with sheer georgette skirts that were embroidered allover with feathers and layered over tailored trousers — cleverly transforming eveningwear to day wear. “It’s all about day to night, breaking conventions and having fun,” the designer explained. The oversized woolen coats were cinched at the waist with slim sparkly encrusted belts and embellished with paisley motifs at the chest or allover embroidered with metallic threads. Dries used his trademark flower patterns in a delicate soft wool coat with a vintage flower print. “One look that I think defines the collection is the long feather skirt with a simple tuxedo shirt,” Dries mused. “It’s a collection to enjoy life in”. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Menswear / Layered / 20s – 30s / Boudoir
Color: Navy / Grey / Camel / Sunny yellow / Cerise / Skin / Blush / Warm red / Ecru / Vanilla / Black
Key Items: All over embroidered wool coat / Long skirt with feathers allover / Over-sized belted menswear jackets with embellishments / Crazy fur coat / Tuxedo shirts / Ballroom feather trimmed and brimmed silk georgette gowns
Materials: Wool flannel / Tapestry fabrics / Luminous jacquards / Silk georgette / Melton wool / Boiled wool, printed and plain / Silk crepe / Mohair knits / Fake fur / Poplin shirtings
Print + Pattern: “Deckchair” stripes / Paisley / Ethnic-y flowers / Vintage flowers
Details + Trim: Feathers / Silk fringes / Metallic yarns / Crystals
Accessories + Footwear: Menswear brogues with rubber soles / Delicate strappy sandals / Big crystal jewelry / Decorated clutches
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