May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: The world of the samurai is one in which the iron-willed strength of a warrior is juxtaposed with a deceptive beauty found in exquisitely crafted vestments ranging from printed silk kimonos to meticulously engineered armor. For F/W 12 Dries Van Noten abstractly curated the iconography of the samurai, naturally marrying it with his lexicon of deliberately idiosyncratic sportswear. Colorful print factored heavily in the collection, leaping from blouses and skirts to pants, and intriguingly, outerwear; Van Noten, like other designers this season, seemed to be making a case for a coat that one does not take off indoors. His lightweight coat (often worn with a waist-defining elastic belt) functioned more like a long blazer than true outerwear — more evidence that Van Noten continues to evolve his craft while not abandoning his established language. —Kibwe Chase-Marshall
Silhouette: Tailored / Loose / Fluid / Belted / Slouchy
Color: Black / White / Metallic Bronze / Royal Blue / Olive drab / Red-Orange / Aqua
Key Items: Crumb-catcher button-up / Full midi-skirt / Bullion-embroidered jacket / Printed coat / Trapunto-bound balloon pant / Fur chubby
Materials: Cotton Poplin / Wool-melton coating / Cashmere-flannel suiting / Luxe sweat-fleece / Cotton drill / Striated velvet / Washed cotton canvas / Silk crepe / Silk radzimir / Silk charmeuse / Fox fur
Print + Pattern: Scrollwork / Mirror-fractured / Large-scale samurai placed-icon / Rainbow stripe / Kimono florals, scenics, cranes in flight
Details + Trim: Gold bullion embroidery / Contrast under-collar facing / Fur collar / Mirrored armor paneling / Trapunto stitching
Accessories + Footwear: Squared-toe character shoe / Banded tortoise heeled-shoe / Heeled Brogue
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