May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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STRUCTURE VS. DRAPE
New York: For S/S 2012, designer Doo.Ri Chung, known exclusively for her effortless draping ability, dipped into tailoring with the concept of “structure containing drape.” The classic button-front shirt was a starting point, and featured heavily throughout the show in a variety of shapes — most interestingly as pieced shirtdresses incorporating crisp poplin with slinky jersey. A series of Art Nouveau-inspired prints and patterns, inspired by the pen and ink illustrations of Aubrey Beardsley and Daniel Egnéus, took the form of optic greyscale linework and finely hand-drawn florals. The prints worked especially well when paired together for a head-to-toe look, as seen on wide leg pajama-style sets. Toward the end of the show the graphic mood shifted to a neutral one, with billowy and draped dresses contained by leather panelling or waist bands, and tailored suits featuring silky swathes of fringe. –Anna Jane Davis
Silhouette: Fluid on bottom, tailored on top / Signature Doo.Ri drapery with a flash of leg
Color: White / Black / “Ultra Violet” / Khaki / Seafoam / Orange / “Citron” / “Sand” / “Slate”
Key Items: Knit-woven shirtdress / Signature draped jersey dress / Wide leg pajama pants / Silky band collar button-front shirt
Materials: Poplin + Twill / Jersey / Metallic Tweed / Silk / “Parachute” / Textured Suiting / Crepe / Leather
Print + Pattern: Fine pen + ink florals inspired by Aubrey Beardsley / Black + white Art Nouveau-style linework
Details + Trim: Knit-woven piecing / Draping, pleating + folds / Contrast placket + pocket details / Supple leather panels + banding / Swathes of fringe trim
Accessories + Footwear: Silky fringe necklaces + bracelets with gold hardware / Chunky patent platform sandals with metal heel detail / Simple, skinny belts
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