Jan 19, 2017 | By Jian DeLeon
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SLEEK + SCULPTURAL
New York: Donna Karan’s elegant Pre-Fall collection proved the designer is still preeminent, consistently producing pieces that real women want to wear season after season. For this outing, she offered items that were uncomplicated, but subtle details, such as handkerchief hemlines, gathering, or sheer effects added just the right amount of visual interest to heighten their appeal. The A-line shape was the dominant silhouette, though cocoon shapes also appeared. A handful of draped items, including some standout jumpsuits, recalled her earlier work. Her late husband, Stephan Weiss’s book of sculptures was displayed at the show, and elements of his work seemed to make their way into the collection. In particular, the push-pull effect created by the mix of fluid pieces with structural items was a link to Weiss’s art, and Karan’s interpretation of the concept was utterly compelling. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: A-line / Cocoon / Hourglass
Color: Black / Ivory / Oxblood / Navy / Charcoal / Cinnamon
Key Items: A-line jacket / Pencil skirts / Draped jumpsuits / Wear-to-work dresses
Materials: Bonded jersey / Bonded neoprene / Cotton stretch cupro / Leather / Crushed wax velvet / Chiffon / Tulle / Silk charmeuse
Print + Pattern: Abstract geometrics
Details + Trim: Gathering / Draping / Piecing / Contrast trim / Rounded shoulders / Handkerchief hemlines
Accessories + Footwear: Wide leather belts / Platform pumps
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