Jul 04, 2017 | By Lizzy Bowring
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New York: Donna Karan dubbed this season’s collection “Raw Romance,” and the organic shapes and frayed edges made for one of her most sensual shows yet. Leaving aside the blacks and cool neutrals of which she is so fond, Karan instead chose a warm palette of creamy tans and burnished gold tones. The sand-covered runway and the textural crinkling and ruching evoked the haunting beauty of the Sahara. Ever the advocate for separates, the designer made them the highlight this season; liquid jersey skirts, dimensional blazers, easy cropped pants and romantic ruffled tops felt new yet embodied Karan’s sophisticated aesthetic. Raw edges, a calf-length hemline and a slim silhouette made this season’s skirt suit a new must-have, and tonal piecing updated her signature draped jersey dress. The single printed look – a silk skirt and peplum jacket in contrasting vintage florals – added warmth and femininity. While the crinkled effects were reminiscent of Prada’s S/S 09 collection, Karan made them her own, forming them into the classic shapes of American sportswear pieces which she helped to develop in her 25 years as a designer.
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