Jan 13, 2017 | By Lizzy Bowring
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New York: Donna Karan based her collection on the evolution of her seven easy pieces, a clothing system where body and spirit communicate the sensuality and power of being a woman — one who is always on the move. “I’m constantly designing clothes that move from day to night,” Donna told us, and also mentioned her late husband Stephan and his art as a constant presence in her life, inspiring and guiding her to sculpt the body with expression. This season the foundation was the body in jersey, layered with skirts, slouchy jodhpurs or leggings. Then came the new architectural wrap-cape-shawl, a piece that created endless possibilities and added drama to the simple base. The jersey dresses and separates came in a mix of matte, shine and sheer, and were layered with skinny jackets the designer called the “bodyjacket”, with contrast sculpted sleeves in corrugated felt, tweeds, leather or suede. The classic camel coat was modernized in neoprene/cashmere. Donna worked with curly shearling as cowl necks, shawl collars, as total garments and even clutches; everything united with a textured urban palette of every shade of metal, earthy bark, rust and lots of black. More body-sculpting came from patchwork effects of sheer and matte, or with clever cuts revealing one shoulder, a low peek-a-boo back or some cleavage. But it was her signature drapes and twists that stood out (as always), with sensual body-hugging dresses (some with dramatic cape-like sleeves that particularly showed Donna’s profound knowledge of design). From the simplicity of molded jerseys to the ultra-luxurious velvets, devorés, satins and sequins, each piece was an individual force of artistry and seduction. “These are clothes for women like me,” said Donna; we think many women would agree. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Minimalist / Lean / Draped / Oversized
Color: Camel / Rust / Metallic / Chestnut / Gunmetal/ Pewter / Black / Ivory
Key Items: Curly shearling jackets / Asymmetric shawl / Viscose neoprene cape / Jersey patchwork dresses and separates / Bonded leather jackets / Slouchy jodhpur pants / Silk chiffon embroidered snakeskin evening dress
Materials: Leather / Silk / Cashmere and neoprene blends / Shearling / Fur / Cashmere wool knit / Stretch viscose jersey / Hammered satin
Print + Pattern: Color and fabric blocking / Subtle tie-dye effects / Devoré
Details + Trim: Leather and fur contrasts / Contrasting fabrics and trimmings / Subtle color-blocking / Heavy metallic zips and buttons / Patchworking
Accessories + Footwear: Over-the-knee wedge boots wedges / Sharp pumps with ankle straps
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