Dolce & Gabbana

Milan: A soaring Pavarotti soundtrack set the tone, as Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana returned to their Sicilian roots and delivered a dream of sartorial heritage that spanned generations of their families. A long black cape (based on an original design created by Gabbana’s tailor father) opened the collection, appropriately named “Hymn to Italy”. The venue’s red quilted walls, dim lighting and white-tie-and-tailed models handing out flutes of champagne mimicked an evening at the opera. With an abundance of gold bullion embroidery, slim velvet smoking jackets, silk pajamas and a flurry of ribbed skivvies worn under extravagant topcoats, it was a celebration of excess. But beyond all the Baroque opulence, it was the well-cut tailoring and overcoats that led the way. Perhaps the best explanation of why young men are gravitating towards vintage-y looks, the duo told WWD: “The clothes have to have a history — it’s not about being retro, but they have to have had their own life. It’s about memories, familiarity — it’s comforting. The new generations want it, because novelty can be scary.”  —Michael Fisher

Color: Baroque gold / Peacock blue / Rust / Grey

Key Items: Wool cape / Silk pajamas / Cable knit self-belt cardigans / Knit pants / Velvet-trimmed jackets / Cashmere thermal pants / Shearling coats / Embroidered bomber jackets / Military overcoats / Short-sleeve cable knit sweater

Materials: Printed silk / Wool melton / Velvet / Shearling / Leather / Cashmere

Details + Trim: Gold embroidery and braiding / Self-belts / Shawl collars / Velvet trim on tailored jackets / Laser-frayed edges / Heat-rumpled surface effects

Accessories + Footwear: Velvet and wool flat caps / Suiting fabric neckwear / Silk foulard bow ties / Leather doctor bags and carryalls / Embroidered socks / Fine gauge scarves / Embroidered laceless boots / Gold studded belts and gloves

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