May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: For fall DKNY has its way with iconic classics. Karan revisited her 80s archive, and managed to bring it into 2013 and beyond. “I love the human body, I’m always inspired by all shapes and forms of the body, it’s so sculptural,” said Karan post show. “I like the idea of wrapping, covering up and the same time revealing skin.” The 80s inspiration was evident in the play of proportions, the sculpted body-con styles, super-exaggerated oversized anoraks, patched varsity jackets and graphic prints. But it was the modern assemblage of materials and graphic approach to color blocking that moved the styles into the future. DKNY kept her blocks simple with black, white and camel to start off with, adding more colors and different scales of animal pattern. The body was accentuated with shapely blocks of leather. Neoprene and bonded fabrics added bounce, and quilting and panels created textures. Karan believes three shapes define the season: the sculptured body, lean and easy, the super chic chemise, and exaggerated menswear classics. The silk shirtdress was used as a layering piece under parkas, duffel coats and roomy intarsia sweaters, with or without pants. The show ended with a parade of long floating silk dresses with enormous hems, styled in a relaxed way over trousers or worn on their own. “I have a never-ending love affair with New York,” Karan told us. It showed in these city-ready pieces. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Exaggerated / Lean / Cubist / Tailored / 80s
Color: Cool blue / Camel / Nude / Pop pink / Hot red / Grey / Black / White
Key Items: The graphical wool coats / Color block neoprene dress / Quilted animal printed over-sized parka / Silk skirt dresses / Camel wool animal print bomber/ Poncho / Floor-length maxi silk dress
Materials: Leather: bonded or plain / Silk / Melton / Felted wool / Camel wool / Fur / Second-skin jersey/ Silk / Nylon
Print + Pattern: Animal prints in different scales / Color and fabric blocking
Details + Trim: Leather and fabric contrasts / Color blocking / Heavy metallic zips / Quilting
Accessories + Footwear: Monk strap booties / Brogues / Asymmetrical sexy pumps / Fold over reversible clutch
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