New York: While it may not be the most fashion-forward brand in the world, one thing DKNY succeeds at each season is illustrating how the modern urban dude can easily transition from day into night and from work into play — all while looking techno and understated at once. For F/W 12, creative director Garry Martin put function ahead of form in a collection called “Urban Rhythm”, which was full of slick surfaces, utilitarian details and hyper-masculine silhouettes. The directional proportions (cropped vests over slim overcoats and high-neck knits under woven shirts) created a kind of sartorial warrior that feels right for a season focused on the traditions of uniforms.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Inky blue / Black / Charcoal grey / Olive / Chocolate / Khaki

Key Items: Leather military shirts / Tailored puffer vests / Parkas / Techno blazers / Two-button suits / Fair Isle sweater / Marled sweaters / Down-filled overcoats / Plaid sport coats

Materials: Leather / Nylon / Down / Melton wool / Flannel / Shearling + suede / Jersey / Technical materials that mimic wool / Enzyme-washed denim

Details + Trim: Detachable linings / Utility pockets / Shawl collars / Zippered collars with hidden hoods / Reversible design / Small point collar on woven shirts

Accessories + Footwear: Felt baseball caps / Burnished work boots in light colors / Tortoiseshell eyewear / Chunky sole lace-up Oxfords / Classic neckwear in 3″ width / Leather gloves

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