Jul 16, 2018 | By Louise Squire
Jul 20, 2017
By WGSN Insider
If you’ve ever been to a lingerie and swim trade show you might be familiar with the glaring electric lights overhead which add a lurid yellow gleam to the delicate shades of satin and lace designs showcased below. Breaking out from large, eerie, windowless haunts is Dessous London (formally the The Lingerie Edit located in The Savoy Hotel) which now occupies an airy, naturally lit space called The Carousel, just off Baker Street.
The show, which just took place this week, is intimate and interesting. Brands from around the globe were selected for their newness or relevance to the contemporary lingerie and swimwear market.
One of the most notable brands was Dita Von Teese Lingerie, the Australia-based company, showcased for the first time in the UK. The brand was started by the burlesque dancer, model and performer Von Teese. And, after a restructuring last year when her original manufacturer DCI Corporation feel into administration, she’s back under her new venture, AB Enterprises. And what about the lingerie, design, shape and style? It had her signature sultry stamp on it. Lara Brockhurst, the design director highlighted the details in the collection inspired by vintage pieces from the personal archive of Dita Von Teese, such as the large satin rose-posy appliqués, and historic corsetry stitching. One of Dita’s favourite pieces in the collection is the Italian silk robe featuring an erotic toile print originally used on Christian Louboutin shoes and handbags.
Other show highlights included Item m6, based in Germany, which arrived with a different design mission. With 65 years experience making medical compression garments the brand produces innovative leg and shape wear. Apart from creating smooth legs, hosiery is made with areas of compression that sculpt the legs and the derriere. Oxygen-supplying, breathable fabric improves circulation and offers moisture management. That’s not all. The ’m6’ in the company name refers to a pressure point used in in acupuncture located two inches above the ankle which, when stimulated, can increase a feeling of lightness and reduce stress; legwear that makes you feel happy. London-based Peach Trail also deserves a mention, the small brand launched a swimwear line this season. Sexy, fashion-forward designs feature contemporary details such as frills and guipure appliqués, perfect for bathing, as well as layering up with apparel in festival looks.
Also invited to share the new space was a selection of graduates from the Contour fashion degree course at DeMontfort University. Most noteable here was the collection by Mollie Blue Falkingham. Her delicate couture-style lingerie and corsetry made in fine French lace, soft leather and silk in black and ivory are inspired by the mourning dress of historical widows. Each lingerie et is dedicated to a British Queen of the past; Catherine of Aragon, Mary II and Victoria.
We can’t wait for next year.
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