May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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Raf Simon’s second couture collection for Dior affirmed that the designer is subtly and thoughtfully bringing the house into the 21st century. The meditation on Christian Dior’s radical New Look of 1947 — the hourglass shapes, the voluminous tea-length skirts — was still present, but this time it was all interpreted with a airy, more confident hand. Dresses seemed to swirl around models’ torsos, with spontaneous-seeming drapery barely tacked into place, and wondrously embroidered tops were shown with pencil-slim pants, giving the looks a nice relevant feel. Simons’ simple concept, “The very idea of spring”, was expressed with plenty of petal-shaped appliqués and a gentle palette of flowery peaches and pinks, grounded by black. The models’ pixie hairdos immediately brought to mind Jean Seberg in Godard’s 1960 film “Breathless” — in the film, Seberg’s gamine character pops into the Dior boutique on Avenue Montaigne, and skips out wearing a striped full-skirted shirtdress. That same youth and magic is there this season. — Sharon Graubard
Silhouette: Hourglass / Slim / Bubble / Column / Fitted sheath / Cropped top
Color: Petal Pink / Blush / Seafoam / Buttercup / Hyacinth blue / Nude / White / Navy / Black / Neon pink and neon yellow in tiny accents
Key Items: Slim tuxedo pantsuit / Full ball skirt / Strapless cocktail sheath / Peplum tunic / Hourglass tank tops / Slit mini-skirts / Layered pencil skirt / Cigarette Pants
Materials: Lustrous satin / Embroidered tulle / Guipure lace / Silk ottoman / Silk piqué / Silk organza
Print + Pattern: Flower motifs via embroidery and beading / Soft ombré stripes
Details + Trim: Petal-shaped appliqués / Dimensional flower embroideries / Colored beads / Asymmetrical drapery / Tulle overlays / Strapless / Jewel necks / Scoop necks / Plunging V-necks
Accessories + Footwear: Tulle elbow-length gloves with floral appliqué / Silk blossom-covered bonnets / Black opaque hosiery / Black spectator pumps with pointy pastel contrast toe / Pastel patent or metallic leather pumps with strap details
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