Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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New York: Renzo Rosso boosted the brand appeal and collection calibre of Diesel’s high end line Black Gold when he appointed Sophia Kokosalaki at the helm. Last season, after six collections, Kokosalaki bid the label adieu, handing the baton to former Phi designer Andreas Melbostad. His Pre-Fall 13 debut with the label demonstrated all the cool codes—sexy biker dressing, strong outerwear, lashings of black and a way with leather—that made his work at Phi so compelling. F/W 13 accelerated down that route with tight leather motorcycle coats, vampy tailoring and zippered leather cigarette pants and micro minis. Diesel’s blue denim was treated to patches of lace, armadillo studs, and leather panels that called to mind a more accessible version of Balmain. Anchored with spiky stiletto pumps, the collection will give Phi fans something to chew on while keeping Black Gold relevant as a purveyor of urban-edged glamour. — Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Motorcycle / Body conscious / Tailored / Utility / Lean
Color: Black / White / Indigo / Charcoal
Key Items: Leather motorcycle coats / Studded jeans and jean jackets / Leather tunics / Crew neck T-shirts / Quilted leather sweatshirt / Studded minidresses / Zippered leather cigarette pants / Zippered leather miniskirts / Studded leather cigarette pants and coats / Wool utility coats / Blazers / Mock turtleneck shirts / trench coats / Utility skirts / Motorcycle pants
Materials: Leather / Distressed leather / Wool / Lace / Denim / Cotton
Print + Pattern: Floral lace
Details + Trim: Studs / Utility pockets / Zippers / Buckles / Quilting / Ribbing / Funnel necks
Accessories + Footwear: Black and white leather pointy stiletto pumps with crisscross ankle straps / Black and white leather pointy stiletto ankle boots / Small soft leather box clutches / Low-slung leather belts
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