May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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RETURN OF THE MASTER OF EDGE
New York: There has been a void in the New York fashion scene since Andreas Melbostad’s Phi label closed three years ago. Whom were the hard-edged, leather-loving fashionistas to turn to? Lucky for them, Melbostad was recently named creative director of Diesel’s Black Gold label, replacing Sophia Kokosalaki. The current Pre-Fall collection is his first offering, and Phi fans will be thrilled to see he has held onto his edgy aesthetic. There was plenty of leather and body-hugging pieces. Motorcycle culture was an inspiration, and laminated skinny jeans, biker jackets, and denim shirt jackets supported the theme. Melbostad broke up the palette of blacks and inky blues with a colorful Art Nouveau-inspired print borrowed from an Austrian wall painting. While the print was appealing, it’s likely that his clients will go straight for the skinny jeans and pieced jackets, which will fulfill their urge for Melbostad’s dark and directional style.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Body-hugging / A-line / Slouchy / Top heavy
Color: Black / Inky blue / Indigo / Khaki / White / Raspberry / Mid-tone blues / Mulberry / Fuchsia
Key Items: Skin-tight laminated jeans / Motorcycle jackets / Pieced coats / Printed A-line dresses
Materials: Laminated denim / Waxed denim / Faded denim / Dark, raw denim / Leather / Wool suitings / Printed silks / Nylon / Medium-gauge yarns
Print + Pattern: Art-Nouveau-inspired kaleidoscopic motif
Details + Trim: Piecing / Quilting / Zippers / Peaked shoulders / Hoods / Contrast plackets and/or trim
Accessories + Footwear: Chunky high-heeled ankle boots
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