May 26, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
Get more Denim insights as a WGSN subscriber
We love Italian denim designer Piero Turk. He can always be seen at Denim by PV chatting on the stands and knows all the big players in the industry. In fact he has worked closely with many mills as a manufacturing and laundry consultant as well as some top denim brands over the years, including Edwin Lee, Replay and AG. So we were excited to learn the other day that he has published his own book documenting awesome detail shots from his denim collection, alongside his personal photographic work of landscapes, urban imagery and abstracts.
The 78-page book is titled Details, and our friends over at Sportswear International interviewed him about it:
What inspired you to publish this book?
“I’ve taken photographs for my work in order to remember and order my ideas throughout the years. More recently I started taking pictures on a personal level – either over my business trips to the US, Japan, Europe and Turkey, or of ordinary people living in my hometown of Treviso.”
Who might be interested in buying this book?
“It could serve as a resource for other people doing the same job as me. I’ve collected interesting product developments, inspiring mendings, accessories and treatments that could be produced on an industrial scale today. For instance, I shot a men’s trouser slit pocket variant most commonly employed in the past and no longer currently produced. It is a manufacturing technique that would cost too much today, despite the fact that it was one of the cheapest ones in earlier years.”
Almost every photo or groups of photos of denim products is placed next to a landscape or different visual element. Is it simply a device to inspire the reader or something more?
“I have always been interested in that which is going to disappear; for instance, some old industrial workshop that seems to have its own soul. I like the idea of prolonging its life or somehow capturing its essence by photographing it. What you do in your work has to somehow last longer than your life – it’s like leaving a mark of something you’ve done. Vintage items represent this. I think that some apparel items are so interesting that they will continue to be inspiring forever. For instance, some artistic metal buttons might remind us of certain iron manholes; scraped walls can conjure super-aged jeans or suggest an idea for a new mending or alternative treatment. There are many publications dedicated to the history of jeans, but only a few focus on singular details.”
What do you see in the future evolution of denim?
“I think that a few denim manufacturers are starting to concentrate on a new research field, which is the employment of man-made fibers of natural origins like Tencel and Modal that, when used for jeanswear, can provide the same authentic look of jeans and can stand similar hard washes and aggressive treatments as cotton ones, while remaining super soft to the touch, stretchy and highly comfortable. This is the only area in which I think not much has been done yet. In fact, it’s difficult ground where not many have dared to walk. Some, however, have begun, such as Kayara, Toray, Tejidos Royo and Orta Anadolu. Of course colored denim and yarn-dyed denim is becoming very successful in the US as well.”
What differences do you see between the US and the European jeans markets?
“The US market is an interesting one. Every brand is doing different things, though they still seem to look the same. They mostly focus on soft hands and finishes like resin-finishes, coatings and prints. In Europe things go the opposite way – every model, even if its part of the same brand, is totally different. Every single model has different buttons, labels and pocket shapes. In the US there is much more attention on the selection of fabrics and finishes, because the US consumer needs to be reassured. The European consumer, on the other hand, is much more of an expert and accustomed to the product’s different stimuli. The US premium price market (offering jeans at USD250-USD350) will count for 10 brands maximum whereas in Europe there are about 1,000 different ones if you consider that local brands are only successful in single countries when compared with the big international names. A lot more detailing, characterization and accurate product differentiation is required by the very demanding European consumer.”
We think this looks like a great resource! Go check it out or buy it over at Blurb.
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.