Jul 04, 2017 | By Lizzy Bowring
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Paris: ‘Destruction as a creative force,’ was the inspiration for the ‘regeneration’ at the house of Vionnet. The label, founded by Madeleine Vionnet, famed for its sleek, soft cut, and introducing the fluidity of bias cutting to fashion, is the designer that fashion designers have on a pedestal. The drape, movement and signature fall of the fabric were all in evidence as the show opened in peach and mint sorbet silk tones, and showcased the timeless appeal of Vionnet. The demure innocence was offset by ‘visual agitation’ (their words) as the label sought to prove its relevance, as much as reinvention. The aim was to ‘disrupt’ its own poetry, with caramel leather pants, the mint leather hoods leading to a darker mood, black on black, starting with a column knit dress, and leather swirled pleats. Nature: volcanoes, glaciers and geysers was the ‘energy’ that fueled the collection. But mixing every force of nature can lead to devastation. The opening had the light spirit of once muse Isadora Duncan, the multi-layered black dresses, gros-grain harnesses, fabric manipulation, sheer panel, rubberized and smocking techniques hinted at where the Vionnet woman was heading. – Camilla Morton
Theme: Blooming decay. Deconstruction as a creative force
Key Item: Draped dresses / Leather pants / Long pleated skirts / Turtlenecks / Leather pleated dress / Draped asymmetrical top / Cape / Sweaters
Colour: Delicate Peach / Mint/ Caramel /Black / White/ Gold / Primary Blue/ Red / Plum
Materials and Trim: Satin/ Leather/ Knit/ Synthetic organdie/ Intarsia furs
Print and Pattern: Pleat / Drape / Craquele Texture / Distorted tartan / Psychedelic print
Accessories and Footwear: Fur slippers / Thigh high laced boots / Luggage – suitcases with wheels
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